5 Frame, 8 Frame, 10 Frame, Oh My!
There are so many choices when it comes to sizing of hive equipment, what's the right choice? You might find you keep bees best when you utilize multiple sizes in your apiary.
The original Langstroth hive had 10 frames and was patented in 1852. 10 frame equipment is still today by far the most popular size for bee hives but we think there's an argument to be made for other sizes as well.
2, 3, 4 Frame
Generally speaking, 2, 3 or 4 frame nucs are only utilized by beekeepers rearing queens. They may just need a small amount of bees so that their virgin queen can get mated and then once she starts laying they sell off the queen or move her to another hive that needs a queen. You might find them as standalone nucs or commonly you will see 10 frame equipment modified to have 3-4 chambers and entrances so it can be divided and house three 3 frame nucs or four 2 frame nucs in one modified 10 frame box, often referred to as a queen castle or queen hotel.
Pictured above, a 5 frame nuc in use
5 Frame
5 frame equipment is often referred to as a "nuc". This can be a little confusing as a nuc could mean the 5 frame equipment itself, or could mean a nucleus colony of bees, depending on what their intention is. Most beekeepers will use 10 frame equipment but do splits into 5 frame equipment and then transfer them to 10 frame equipment once the colony has grown enough to warrant that. In that case, the 5 frame equipment is used temporarily and helps to ensure they are not given too much space to defend early on.
Pictured above, a 7 frame hive in use with a frame feeder replacing 2 frames
6-7 Frame
Between 5 frame and 8 frame equipment you'll find a smaller quantity of people use 6 or 7 frame equipment. I actually use some 7 frame hives myself and like them as I can use them as a 5 frame nuc with a feeder in there that replaces two frames. If you were to use a frame feeder in a nuc you'd be left with 4 frames in there the bees can actually use if your frame feeder replaces one frame or worse just 3 frames if the feeder replaces two frames. I'm often catching swarms and want to feed them immediately so I will often put them in a 7 frame box with a feeder and then transfer them to a 10 frame hive once they have grown enough.
8 Frame
8 frame equipment is also fairly popular. Sometimes this size is selected because of colony size, but more frequently to save weight. Someone who has been beekeeping for decades with 10 frame equipment may want to convert to 8 frame equipment as they grow older and lifting heavy hive boxes has become more difficult. Some commercial beekeepers also like this size. Generally speaking, when they are hauling bees for pollination they have a contract that specifies the number of frames of bees in each hive they deliver for polination services. They are generally expecting 6-7 frames of bees in the hive, so if a commercial beekeeper is confident they can still have 6-7 frames of bees in a 8 frame hive instead of 10 frame hive, then they can fit more hives on a semi load and potentially be more profitable with 8 frame equipment.
Pictured above, a 10 frame hive with a frame feeder replacing one frame. When using frame feeders that just replace one frame, the fit is generally very tight with the remaining 9 frames, you can generally only use these feeders that replace one frame if your outside frame is undrawn. Often if it is drawn the comb will be too wide to allow bee space between that outside frame and the feeder itself.
10 Frame
10 frame equipment again is by far the most popular. Often used as a permanent hive after transfer from a 5 frame hive, this size offers a lot of flexibility. You can use 10 frames in them and put a top feeder on top. You can use 8 frames in them and put a frame feeder in there that replaces the other two frames. If doing double deep management, you can have 10 frames in the bottom and 8 in the top with a frame feeder for a total of 18 frames, or use a top feeder and run a full 20 frames.
So what's best for you?
Well, we say that depends on your goals, how you want to get there, and what your bees need. We hope that after reading this blog you'll have a better understanding of why beekeepers choose different sizes and make a better decision on what size or sizes are best for you.